This week sees the start of an exciting new weekly feature in PCN Workbench. While most magazines concentrate on what you can do with software, we'll be taking you into hardware. Each week there'll be a project that will enhance the hardware side of your system - things like simple reset switches and external sound speakers. We're starting from scratch by talking about tools and how to solder - so there's no excuse, even if you're a complete beginner.

When it comes to playing around with electronics, most computer owners are scared. They'd like to get out a soldering iron to make their own add-ons, but don't know ehere to start.

In Workbench we will take you through the fundamentals of building projects for many home computers, and show you how easy it is.

It is very important to have a decent toolkit; bad tools lead to badly built projects which won't work. A decent toolkit costs about £30, and will last for years.

So what tools should you buy? The central piece of equipment is a soldering iron. The one you choose should be fairly small and around 17 watts. A soldering iron that's built like a poker and has a high wattage will only damage your components. Expect to pay around £7.

If there isn't a small bit on the end, buy one. Iron clad bits are the best value as they last longer. Using a wet sponge to wipe the soldering iron bit is also essential as it not only cleans excess solder off the iron, but also makes the bit last longer.

Of course the type of solder that you use is also important. Don't buy the solder that is used in metalwork, the type that has to be dipped in flux; always use solder made from 60 per cent tin and 40 per cent lead that contains its own non-corrosive flux. This is usually in five cores that run through the solder.

A decent pair of cutters are also needed to cut your components, wire etc, rather than scissors or pliers. Don't buy the cheapest pair of small side cutters as they don't last long. Pay as much as you can afford - you won't regret it.

As well as the cutters you also need a small pair of snipe nose pilers for going fiddly work. Again, buying a decent pair pays off in the long run.

Wire strippers are handy but not essential as it is possible to cut your wire using the cutters, but wire strippers do make life easier. You can buy wire cutters that not only cut the insulation from your cable but pull it off as well.

A selection of good screwdrivers also helps. A set of small jeweller's screwdrivers is extremely handy, and the ones with allen keys and small spanners are even better. Don't forget that the nuts and bolts you will be dealing with are usually small.

Just as handy is a multimeter. In fact, it is often essential as you will have to check voltages to make sure that everything is working correctly. Again, spend what you can afford, and expect one that's adequate to cost around £7.

So let's build up our toolkit. Maplin is a good source, so we have listed its prices and parts numbers.

The standard of soldering in an electronics project can make the difference between success and failure. One dry joint and the entire project is likely to function incorrectly or not at all.

The first few workbench projects are deliberately simple: this is to allow you to get used to handling a soldering iron.

Make sure that the leads are clean and free from grease for a good connection. It's also a good idea to tin the connections: simply place the iron on the leads or wire to be soldered and apply a first thin layer of solder to the area to be soldered.

The leads of the component you want to solder should then be carefully bent so that it will fit into place. Place the iron on the joint. Next, the solder should be offered up to the lead of the component, not the iron. As soon as the solder starts to flow around the joint, the solder, and then the iron should be removed.

Once the joint has cooled down it can be inspected. The solder should completely surround the joint and look bright and shiny. If it has a crystalline appearance or looks dull, you probably have a dry joint, which must be remade. Sometimes reapplying the iron for a couple of seconds does the trick.

Don't leave the iron on the component too long - it may get damaged. The iron should only touch the component for a couple of seconds before you apply the solder. People often put too much solder on the joint; use only enough solder to cover the joint completely.

Always make sure that your iron is hot and kept clean as a cool or dirty iron won't make a good connection. Keep a damp sponge on hand so that you can clean the tip of the iron as you go.